8 KEY SUSTAINABLE FASHION TIPS
/
What we wear matters. Our clothing is a mode of self-expression, no doubt. At the same time, our fashion choices have a major impact on the planet.
The fashion industry generates 8-10% of global carbon emissions—more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined—and is also the second largest consumer of water, according to the UN Environment Program. Dyes, toxic fabric finishes (formaldehyde, waterproofing, stain proofing), petroleum-based synthetic fabrics and shedding microfibers compound the apparel industry’s negative impact.
Ready for a mindblowing statistic? Approximately 80 billion pieces of new clothing are consumed globally every year. Textile waste is also a growing issue, with over 80% of textiles entering the waste stream as used clothing or byproducts of manufacturing.
Of course, fast fashion’s cheap, high volume, m.o. is fueling the fire of overconsumption and waste. And exploitative, dangerous work conditions continue to plague the fashion industry.
Whew. There is the problem, laid out. Now, how can we do our part to fix this mess?
“Sustainable fashion” is arguably an oxymoron, since fashion is about ever-changing trends and encourages consumption of the latest looks. Let’s start by reframing the expression. We can think about sustainable fashion in terms of style, not trends—unleashing creative styling to respond to trends (and maybe even start eco ones). Ready to make the shift?
This guide offers eight tips on how to make your wardrobe more eco-friendly, nontoxic and ethical.
1) Choose eco-friendly materials
Plant-based natural fibers are renewable, biodegradable, and recyclable. Look for organic cotton, hemp, linen, and bamboo.
Cotton really is the mother of all natural clothing fabrics, if you choose organic. Regular cotton is one of the most chemically intensive crops on the planet. Much of it is also genetically engineered, with pesticides spliced into the seeds’ DNA. Cotton is also a water hog. It takes about 700 gallons of water to produce the cotton for one t-shirt. While water use is still an issue with organic cotton, it is far better for the environment and workers. GOTS and OEKO-TEX are organic cotton certifications to look for.
Hemp is naturally sustainable because it requires no pesticides and very little water to grow. Hemp also sequesters carbon and restores nutrients to the soil, making it a rockstar of regenerative farming. The only downside for clothing use is that the fibers produce heavier, textured fabrics, limiting its aesthetic range. For breathability and lighter weight, linen is a good alternative.
Linen is made from flax, a low impact crop that grows in poor soil. Stronger than cotton, linen fabric isn’t as popular because it’s relatively expensive to produce and wrinkles easily. Still, it’s a great choice to round out the fancier end of an eco-friendly wardrobe.
Bamboo is a fast-growing grass and easy to cultivate. It is a sustainable resource, with a caveat: bamboo jersey, the soft knitted fabric favored for t-shirts and underwear, is made with a chemically intensive process. It’s better to go for minimally processed bamboo woven fabric instead.
Animal-based natural fibers are also renewable, biodegradable, and recyclable. Silk and wool are the standouts here. They are hardy, naturally insulating and versatile. There can be ethical issues with how these fibers are collected, so I recommend researching brands to check their track record on animal treatment. Ethical treatment often goes hand in hand with better quality too.
Lenzing brand viscose is made of cellulose from sustainably harvested trees. Their special factories minimize pollution from the intensive chemical processing tree cellulose requires. Regular viscose contributes to deforestation and has a heavy chemical impact. The bottom line is: for viscose (and it’s close cousin lyocell), check the label for Lenzing’s trademarks—LENZING™ / ECOVERO™ and Tencel®.
Deadstock fabric is factory leftovers or simply never-used textiles. Brands and designers turn to deadstock as a source of unusual and/or high quality fabric, usually at a discount. Manufacturing and buying deadstock clothes is a great way to reduce textile waste too.
Recycled or upcycled fabrics are tricky. The best materials for recycling are made of natural fibers. Keep in mind all manmade synthetics shed microfibers that get into our water, the food chain, and our bodies. While yoga pants made of recycled PET (polyethylene) upcycles plastic bottles, they are polluting the environment with tiny non-biodegradable particles (microfibers) every time they’re washed. I recommend using the Guppy Friend, a special bag for synthetics that captures microfibers released during laundering.
2) Circularity makes the sustainable fashion world go ‘round
Have you heard of the circular economy? The movement is based on consuming less, sharing, and designing products with minimal or no waste. It’s modeled on natural systems, like forest environments, where waste doesn’t exist. The goal is to create a continuous cycle of resource reuse. In fashion, circularity captures the practices of choosing renewable and nontoxic textiles, consuming less, maximizing the life of clothes, and turning old clothes into new ones.
Sharing is a critical part of the circular economy (rides, homes, and clothes for example). Acquiring previously owned (a.k.a. pre-loved) clothes through secondhand stores, apps, or clothing swaps reduces landfill waste, pollution, and resource use. Even big stores like Nordstrom’s are getting in on it. Pre-loved goods are a win-win for the planet and your pocketbook.
Clothing rental is another way to reduce + reuse while experiencing the thrill of new looks for less. Try it with The Real Real, Rent the Runway, peer-to-peer start up Wardrobe, or one of the many local share networks popping up. These services typically handle cleaning and storage, too.
Some progressive brands will take back your used garments and repurpose them. Patagonia, Eileen Fisher, and Nudie Jeans are a few leading the way.
3) Quality construction and fabric equals durability
Cheap fast fashion is on the fast track to the trash. Durable materials and construction mean longer enjoyment, less consumption, and the option to pass them on. Durability and high quality also mean you (or a tailor) can update a garment’s style to give it a second life.
True, quality usually costs more. This is easier to accept when also buying fewer, well made pieces in styles you can see wearing for multiple seasons. Take the #30Wears challenge, started by Livia Firth. To help resist impulse shopping, ask “will I wear this piece at least 30 times?”.
Better quality fabric means repairs and spot removal are less likely to show, another plus for longer life.
4) Workers are treated well
Human rights abuses abound in cut and sew facilities globally. The tragic 2014 collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh, which killed more than 1,100 people and injured thousands of more, is a prime example of the terrible conditions many garment workers endure. This tragedy was a wake-up call for many in the fashion industry and for consumers around the world.
Rana Plaza also spawned The Fashion Revolution, a powerful international collective pushing for positive change on all fronts—manufacturers, brands, governments, and consumers. Their #whomademyclothes? movement encourages each of us to demand transparency and accountability from brands. Keep in mind, unethical working conditions are not only a problem in faraway lands—they are found in New York City and many other American cities.
Fair wages, safe working conditions and reasonable hours mean the people making our clothing are not being mistreated in sweatshops or factories. Some brands go farther than “do no harm”, giving workers better-paying skills and access to healthcare and education. Support them by voting with your dollars.
Research your favorite brands to find out how they treat workers. GoodOnYou is an excellent resource on the impacts of a company’s supply chain. Also check for 3rd party certifications from SA8000, Fair Trade USA, or Fair Trade America.
5) Machine or hand washable, instead of dry clean only
Dry cleaning uses toxic chemicals, especially PERC (perchloroethylene), which is linked to cancer. Plus, it wears out clothing more quickly. Be aware, even dry cleaners touting they are “eco-friendly” typically use petroleum-based chemical solvents.
For suits, coats and other garments needing a professional wash, some dry cleaners offer “wet cleaning” done with less harmful detergents. A few offer carbon dioxide cleaning, using CO2 gas. It’s safe and effective but hasn’t taken off due to expensive equipment.
Wool, silk, cotton and cashmere are typically safe to hand wash, even if the label says to dry clean only. Make sure to use cold water only and a mild natural liquid soap, like Seventh Generation. Clothes should be rolled in towels to partially dry, then either hung to drip-dry or laid flat on a fresh towel.
6) Steer clear of fabric finishes and know your dyes
If a garment is waterproof, wrinkle proof, stain or sweat resistant it probably has a nasty chemical treatment applied. These include PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), formaldehyde, and PFC (Polyfluorinated chemicals). These toxic treatments pollute the air, water and soil. They can also enter our bodies through environmental exposure or through the skin.
Many dyes contain heavy metals, formaldehyde and cancer-causing agents. Look for low impact or vegetable dyes. Also check for blue sign, a reliable certification for fabrics and dyes.
7) Zero waste or low waste design is part of the solution
An enormous amount of fabric is wasted in fashion production when clothing is cut. Innovative brands are manufacturing with new production and waste management technologies to reduce leftover materials. Seek them out, along with designers who create patterns that minimize waste with strategic shapes and seams.
Upcycling, or reuse of would-be waste to create a higher quality product, is an exciting eco-friendly design trend that diverts clothing from landfills.
8) Go small, when it comes to carbon footprints
Supporting local designers and businesses means a smaller transportation carbon footprint. You’ll boost your local economy too.
Some brands manufacture in low impact factories featuring solar and wind energy, energy efficiency, water recycling and waste & emissions capturing technology.
Handy sustainable fashion resources
Check out GoodOnYou and DoneGood, and look for the certifications mentioned. The GoodOnYou app breaks down impact by category so you can choose what’s most important to you—fabrics, dyes, carbon emissions, water use, treatment of workers, animal issues, reuse, recyclability etc.
DoneGood is a website and plugin that makes shopping for ethical, eco-friendly products easier. Their browser plugin automatically finds and recommends vetted brands when you do a product search on Amazon or Google.
Of the many blogs and websites that specialize in sustainable fashion, a few of my favorites are ecocult, melanin & sustainable style, and The Good Trade.
These resources make going sustainable much easier, but they don’t include every brand or answer every question. Don’t be shy about reaching out to get the facts on a garment. Jump online to do your own research. Talk to your local designers, and use social media to press bigger brands for answers. The bottom line is this slow fashion mantra: buy less, buy better, think circular.
Eco-friendly, ethical certifications
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) for organic cotton and other fabrics
OEKO-TEX for textiles, fabrics, dyes and finishes
RSW (Responsible Wool Standard) - for wool from humanely treated sheep
Blue Sign for textiles and dyes
SA8000, Fair Trade USA, and Fair Trade America for ethical working conditions
Cradle to Cradle Certified for the circularity of products and material
…buy less, buy better, think circular…